Holiday Traditions in France
In the Land of Consumerism, we get slapped with Christmas even before Halloween decorations are taken down. Christmas music plays EVERYWHERE. Families put up their tree the day after Thanksgiving. Ads are playing nonstop about finding the perfect gift for your loved one.
We’ve all heard the phrase, “The French do it better.” At PDC, we know we romanticize everything the French do. But for the holidays, I think the more apt phrase is: The French do it subtly.” For instance, people don’t often say Bonne fêtes! or Joyeux Noel! until Christmas Eve or Christmas day. (P.S. Wishing someone Bonne Année (Happy New Year) before midnight on New Year’s Eve brings bad luck.)
Many of these traditions are similar to the ones we have in the United States. I’m not saying they do Christmas better, but maybe we can all incorporate a little Paris into our own homes this winter.
Christmas Lights
While the French don’t typically decorate the outside of their houses, the cities make it up by decorating their streets with dazzling lights.
In Paris, there’s a ceremony in late November to switch on the Christmas lights on the Avenue des Champs-Elysées where the iconic Arc de Triomphe is. But it’s not just one avenue; over 150 streets and landmarks — like the Eiffel Tower — are adorned in dazzling decorations, turning the City of Lights into a true winter wonderland. And the best part is the LED bulbs are solar powered, making their light display economically green. In this enchanting season, Parisians and tourists can stroll through the beautiful brightly lit streets, marveling at the magic of Paris.
Advent Calendar
The advent calendar is a tradition in France (but actually originated in Germany). Starting on the 1st of December, children will open each door containing chocolates or candy to countdown the days until Christmas. Nowadays, an advent calendar can contain anything — from perfume samples, skin care, tea bags, airplane sized bottles of booze, etc.
Do as the French do: Buy an advent calendar if you don’t already! I’m currently obsessed with this zany one full of French chocolates designed by French illustrator Valentin Pujadas.
Marché de Noël
These holiday markets are set up at the end of November or early December and go on until Christmas and are even in small towns and villages. The markets are chock-full of booths selling artisanal food like cheeses and terrines, handmade goods, and Christmas trees. They also have booths serving snacks and wine if you need a break from shopping. Vin chaud, mulled red wine with cinnamon, cloves, nutmeg, and orange peel, is the sipping drink of choice as you walk from vender to vender to find gifts for your loved ones. In Paris, Tuileries Garden and Notre Dame both have a popular market, but the oldest and most famous Christmas market in France is Christkindelsmärik in Strasbourg in the Alsace region (our January inspiration).
Do as the French do: Shop locally. We’re obsessed with Shop SENTI where Jen Knoch has curated beautiful luxury products, and I love Bench Pressed for cute and quirky stocking stuffers. Then, drink mulled wine as you wrap gifts, decorate your tree, or cook Christmas dinner.
Les Etrennes
Les Etrennes is a tradition to give cash or a somewhat valuable gift to people who provide services for you that make our daily lives easier — like the postman, garbage collectors, delivery drivers, cleaning people, etc.
Do as the French do: We all feel a little more generous during this season so let’s spread the holiday cheer around.
Thirteen Desserts
Thirteen desserts are spread out to represent Jesus and the twelve apostles during the week leading up to Christmas in the Provençal region. Candied nuts, fresh and dried fruits, nougats, and biscuits will be laid out so visiting friends and family can fulfill their sweet tooth needs.
Do as the French do: Spread out the cookies! Thirteen desserts are a lot of work for one person to make — but you can always host a cookie exchange before the holidays!
Un Sapin de Noël (A Christmas Tree)
In France, many people don’t set up their tree until December 24th and then they take it down twelve nights after for the Epiphanie (the visit of Kings). This tradition actually started in Germany as a Pagan tradition. Pagans would bring fir trees into their homes at Yuletide as it represented everlasting life and fertility. They would decorate the trees with candles to signify light was coming after a dark time (winters are hard).
Do as the French do: But actually, don’t. Putting up a Christmas tree is too much work for it to only be up for 12 days. I like the United States tradition more: set up the tree whenever you wish and enjoy it for the month.
Le Réveillon de Noël
Le Réveillon is the big Christmas dinner, and it’s typically on Christmas Eve. The French like to go all out for their dinners and serve courses like oysters, foie gras, goose or capon with chestnuts, a bûche de noël for dessert, and of course, fine wines and champagne. Not only is the food grand, but the table is artfully and beautifully set. We often talk about how the French make dinner an event and not just a meal; well, this dinner is the epitome of that as it can last for hours.
Do as the French do: I’m not saying we should all change our holiday dinner plans because the French do it on Christmas Eve. But we can all appreciate the essence of the Le Réveillon: lingering over a table of great food and wine, good conversation, and laughter.
Papillotes
Papillotes are chocolates wrapped in golden, shiny paper with fringed ends with a secret message inside and placed on the dinner table during Le Réveillon. The story goes these chocolates were created in Lyon at the shop of Pastry Chef Sieur Papillot in 1790. His apprentice was head over heels in love with his daughter and would send her chocolates with sweet messages written inside. Looking for his missing inventory, he discovered what was happening and was charmed by the idea. Et Voila! The Papillotes were born!
Do as the French do: Buy a bag of Papillotes and lay them out at the dinner table or write a sweet message for each guest on their place card.
Mistletoe
The French hang mistletoe in their house — not for smooches — for good luck.
Père Noël
Similar to American traditions of hanging a stocking on the mantle, French children will leave their shoes by the fireplace in hope that Père Noël, or Father Christmas, will fill them with presents. There’s also a baddie Santa called Père Fouettard who travels with Père Noël and leaves all the naughty children coal.