Mimolette
Mimolette (mee-moh-let) is one of our favorite cheeses at PDC. It looks like a cantelope! The tannish-grey rind not only has a cantelope-like texture with a round shape, but it also has a bright orange center. But the flavor is what makes it in our top three: it’s mild and nutty with caramel and fruity notes, similar to a cheddar. The cheese is typically aged from 18-22 months, making it a mildy hard cheese.
Where it’s Made
Mimolette was first made by the French in the city of Lille in the Hauts-de-France region when the French were at war with the Spanish-held Netherlands (Franco-Dutch War from 1672 to 1678). They no longer had access to Edam-style cheeses, so they did what anyone would do; they made their own. Now the cheese is known as The French Edam.
How it’s Made
Cows milk, rennet, and annatto are formed together in a ball-shape, pressed, rested in a salt bath for a few days, and are then placed on wooden boards to age in caves. After the initial aging process, the balls are then moved to a different cave and placed on netting, which allows a mold to form around the cheese. Cheese mites then eat the mold, which creates the craters and the texture Mimolette is known for and helps aerate the cheese. (Yes, we know what you’re thinking: mites?! They’re good mites we swear! Living on the surface of the rind, they not only give the cheese its distinctive appearance but also contribute to the flavor of the cheese.)
A Little (Recent) History
The cheese mites actually ended up being a problem for many cheeses and the United States FDA in 2013. Not that there were mites, but because there were too many mites. At the time, the FDA had passed new restrictions about the minuscule bugs, concerned they would trigger allergic reactions. The agency demanded that there could be no more than six mites per square inch, which basically banned Mimolette as it has a higher mite count than many other cheeses by nature. In fact, while many cheesemakers try to fight off mites, Mimolette producers encourage them as they’ve been considered part of the recipe for centuries. Mimolette was held up in warehouses, and importers were told to destroy any wheels where the mite count was too high. Not wanting the cheese to be destroyed, France stopped exporting to the US. However, the problem was sorted a few years later, and Mimolette was (and is!) allowed to be imported.
What To Drink
Pair this cheese with farmhouse ales and sours, especially from Belgium and northern France. These brews usually depend on yeast versus hops and are distinctive in their spicy, tart, and floral flavors while being effervescent. Chocolate, fruit, and nuts will also bring out the cheese’s flavor.
Fun Fact! Mimolette is known as an introductory cheese in France! Parents will give this to their children as a snack as it’s easy to eat (meaning no funky flavors). It’s the equivalent to an American parent giving cheddar to their young kids (albeit better).
Most good cheese shops or higher-end grocery stores will carry Mimolette. I’ve also found it in quality wine shops with a cheese display or at Whole Foods. Do yourself a favor and add it to your cheese board the next time you’re hosting. Or eat a wedge alone in the dark. No one is watching!
We’re serving Mimolette in our February menu with pistachio & apricot mendiants — chocolate discs studded with fruit and nuts. And the recipe is simple!
Chop dried apriocts and pistachios (or desired fruit and nuts).
Temper chocolate in a double boiler to 88-90ºF for dark chocolate, 86ºF for milk chocolate, or 79-82ºF for white chocolate, and pipe onto a parchment lined sheet tray. Tap the tray down to flatten the chocolate into 2” discs.
Immediately sprinkle the nuts and fruits over the chocolate discs.
Cool in a refrigerator. Et voila!