Sommelier Notes for August
by Bill Summerville
My favorite wine writer, Andrew Jefford was referring to Beaujolais when he said, “To set about naming its parts would demean its beauty. It has if you like a huge capacity for goodness and an almost none for greatness. It is the proof that happiness can sometimes be uncomplicated.”
This is a sentiment we should embrace more often, but especially this time of year as some of the prettiest food stuffs come into season and tomatoes and corn enter our daydreams and whisper, “Summer won’t last forever.”
This is the time of year when things should be uncomplicated. Uncomplicated, or simple does not mean boring. There is a wonderful beauty and magic in simplicity. It’s almost like you’ve been tricked or charmed. Uncomplicated, Charming Wines.
More and more I find myself drawn to the texture of a wine and less so the “flavor.” Crunchy whites, silky reds: gruner vetliner, txakoli, país. Silky reds so light they deserve a chill. Chilean País, perhaps the most beautiful grape I’ve always taken for granted- supple, easy, charming. Crunchy Austrian grüner veltliner so easy you’re already opening a second bottle. Txakoli, with its inherent spritz and so low in alcohol some of us have it before lunch (only on vacation). We call it breakfast wine.
Keep your wines simple and cold.