Pairings for April — VERTE
Bill Summerville’s notes on VERTE —
While Sarah’s PNW greenery cascaded, spilled and crept, our white snow and now brown everything lay still, quiet, and dormant.
So we’re ditching those red, wines of Winter. Gone are the evenings by the fire and here are the mornings of sunshine and inspiration that lead to lunches with wines filled with exuberance.
Light on their feet, low in alcohol, and sometimes with a spritz; white and pink, and we’ll even let very light reds join our party. Like Jamie and Sarah’s Verte Menu these wines are whimsical and lighthearted, not serious wines, but joyful, energetic wines. Think puppy-dog energy.
Gruner Veltliner literally means green valley and is one of my all-time favorite white wines. It’s Austrian, tingly and delicious.
Vinho Verde is Portuguese and while verde means green, its intent in the name is to indicate that the wine should be drunk young. This wine comes in white, pink and light red. Low in alcohol with a little spritz.
Txakoli from northern Spain has a similar vibe as Vinho Verde, but with more complexity- made from Basque grapes you’ve never heard of and definitely don’t want to try to pronounce.
And of course rosé. I drink rosé all year, but this is when I dream about it. Drink rosé from cooler climates like the Loire Valley, Austria and Germany. They’ll have higher acidity and will be more refreshing.
Selections from France44
Lucien Crochet Sancerre
If you haven't tried this Sancerre, this is a perfect meal to serve as an introduction. Domaine Lucien Crochet is a fusion of two historic winemaking families in the Loire Valley. Their winemaker studied in Dijon and put in significant time working at Domaine Dujac. This Sancerre is elegance in a glass and will sing with any and every bite of this entire meal.
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Salomon Ündhof 'Wieden' Grüner Veltliner
This wine is a literal interpretation of the green theme- Grüner means green in German, and we love this wine with all things green (especially green spring time veg- ramps, asparagus, etc). The Wieden has the medium body and savory quality that I would expect (but not always find) in a Grüner Veltliner. There is an underlying white pepper and fresh citrus quality with an herbaceous and green aroma that make this an excellent choice for a wide variety of foods.
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Domaine du Mortier Brain do Folie Rouge
Founded by two brothers, Cyril and Fabien Boisard, Domaine du Mortier is centered in Bourgueil (central Loire Valley). They organically and biodynamically produce Sauvignon Blanc, Chenin Blanc, Grolleau, and Cabernet Franc. This red wine is an equal parts blend of the two red grapes and is a light and food-friendly option from the region.
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Sohm & Kracher 'Lion' Gruner Veltliner 2022
Sohm & Kracher is a collaboration between sommelier Aldo Sohm and Austrian vigneron Gerhard Kracher. They produce wines from Austria's Weinviertel region which offers many hidden gem vineyards. This Gruner Veltliner is fermented in stainless steel and sees a year on the lees. The combination of time on the lees and the ripeness of the 2022 vintage offers a rich vinous palate with notes of honeyed apple and pear balanced by vibrant acidity and mineral. Gruner is great with so many dishes but is always a good move with asparagus and artichoke which can be challenging to pair with wine.
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Clos Sainte Magdeleine Cassis Blanc 2023
Cassis is a small, sunny coastal region near Bandol in Provence. The white wines that are produced there are full bodied, herbaceous, salty, and a revelation to have with fish dishes. This vintage is composed of Marsanne, Ugni Blanc, Clairette, and Bourboulenc. Don't let this cepage fool you, the wine has plenty of vibrancy and lift. The nose shows aromas of candied lemon and mineral and the medium bodied palate has notes of peach and apple with a refreshing salinity. This wine will have the richness to match the scallops and the acidity to cut the butter and creme fraiche on the main course.
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Domaine Benoit Cantin Irancy 2021
Benoit Cantin is one of the best producers in Irancy which is just southwest of Chablis in Burgundy and shares the same Kimmeridgian limestone soil. Here Pinot Noir is made and it is known for its linear and minerally style. With a string of warmer vintages in Burgundy, Irancy is shedding its austere reputation and the wines are becoming more generous with red cherry fruit on the palate while maintaining that fine acidity. Irancy used to be known as a Parisian bistro red due to its proximity to the city but it is becoming known worldwide as one of those satellite regions in Burgundy that offers value. The acid in the wine should help refresh the palate from the buttery escargot to the creamy goat cheese.
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