Pairings for February — Champagne
Bill Summerville’s notes on Champagne —
“Let’s Get Lost.”
I love champagne because of its accidental creation assisted by Mother Nature. I also love champagne because of man’s failed attempt to tame her effervescent character and then surrender to her.
For years the monk, Dom Perignon tried to make wine in Champagne without bubbles and in the process created some of the most important rules for making wine. But it was Dom Perignon’s assistant, who convinced Claude Moet that the bubbles were the magic of champagne. And it was Claude Moet who made Louis the XV and his head mistress fall in love with champagne. Mdme. Pompadour said, “Champagne is the only wine that makes me feel prettier.” From that point champagne fueled the Royal Court’s debauchery though the 1700s and right into the revolution. It is said that champagne was the last thing Louis XVI and Marie Antoinette drank before heading to the guillotine.
Like Mdme. Pompadour, I love champagne because no wine makes me feel the same way champagne does. It slows the pace of time; lazy, languorous bubbles, meandering upward. It’s easy to get lost in their journey, forget the world around you and just be. And that is why I prefer pairing champagne with moments, not food, but ordinary, spontaneous moments. They become special because we’ve slowed the pace of time and created our history.
Selections from France44
Bertrand-Delespierre Enfant de la Montagne 1er Cru Brut NV
Pierre Gimonnet 1er Cru Blanc de Blancs Brut
Henri Goutorbe Grand Cru 2013
Selections from North Loop Wines
Pierre Peters "Cuvee de Reserve" Brut Blanc de Blanc
Pierre Peters Champagne style is very sleek and racy with intense mineral and acid masterfully balanced with fruit. The wines exude an energy that invigorates and refreshes the palate. This cuvee is an elite expression from the Cotes des Blancs in Champagne, which is Chardonnay's spiritual home in the region. This Champagne will have the vibrancy to help navigate a longer aperitif session.
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Gimonnet Gonet L'Eclat Rose
This Champagne house was founded in 1986 by Philippe Gimonnet and Anne Gonet, the descendants of two iconic Champagne families. Their rose is spectacular and is predominantly Chardonnay with a smaller percentage of Pinot Noir. The nose shows berry fruit and roses and the creamy palate offers a burst of raspberry fruit with a long mineral finish. Perfect to compliment a savory poultry course.
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Dumangin J. Fils Ratafia Champenois
Dumangin J. Fils is the best producer of Ratafia Champenois, a sweet fortified wine from the Champagne region that rarely makes its way out of France. The nose shows notes of tropical fruit and baking spice and the palate delivers raspberry fruit and a rich nuttiness. This excels with a little chill paired with cheeses or chocolate desserts.
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Champagne A. Bergere Rose, Brut
Tending vines on the slopes of the Vallée du Petit Morin since 1848, the Bergère family produces traditional Champagne method sparkling wines, and also two parcels of Coteaux Champenois, the lesser-known still-wine producing designation. In this blend, they bring 90% traditional method Chardonnay with 10% of the estate's Coteaux Champenois Pinot Noir. In addition to experimenting with their parcels and blending methods, the newest generation is also experimenting with various barrels and foudres, and vinification techniques to best express their terroirs. This Brut Rosé NV comes from the villages of Fèrebrianges, Etoges and Congy. On the nose, the wine shows aromas of strawberry and raspberry, with a plate of fresh fruit flavors, lively acidity and a creamy finish. It's sturdy enough for the coq au Champagne with bacon and mushrooms, or would be lovely with the lobster.
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Champagne Cordon Didierlaurent, Tradition, Brut
This dry Champagne comes from a 4th generation independent Champagne family in the Marne Valley. Just west of Epernay, the Marne is known for growing more of the Meunier grape than any part of the Champagne region, partly because the grapes are more resistant to frost, making them well-suited for the cooler Marne climate. This blend features 70% Meunier, showcasing the grape’s distinct fruit character front and center. Chardonnay rounds out the blend, adding softness and toasty notes. The versatile wine pairs beautifully a wide range of foods, from rich cheeses to caviar or roasted poultry.
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Domaine Rondeau, Bugey Cerdon AOC, Methode Ancestral, Rose
Hailing from a lesser known region in eastern France near the border of Switzerland, the Bugey region is probably best known for this delightfully fruity, frothy sparkling wine that boasts a little sweetness and relatively low alcohol. At Domaine Rondeau, the Cerdon is made in the méthode ancestrale with 100% Gamay that is harvested by hand at optimum maturity. This wine is best enjoyed in its youth to ensure all its aromas are present in their most flattering and enjoyable forms, including strawberry, cherry, cream and a hint of spice. This is like a strawberry parfait in a glass! At about 40 grams/liter of residual sugar, the wine does have some perceptible sweetness; however, with the very delicate tannin of Gamay and the supporting acidity, it comes across as being less sweet than it actually is. Cerdon is absolutely delightful as an aperitif. Better yet, it can serve as a wonderful accompaniment to fruit-based desserts or chocolate-based sweets.
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